Prowein Recovers from the Pandemic

Hailing from more than 60 countries, 86% of the nearly 6,000 exhibitors were from outside Germany; Italian vintners were followed by those from France, Germany, and Spain. Marked by unanticipated public transport strikes on the 2nd and 3rd days, Prowein’s organizers said that 49,000 trade visitors from 141 countries, as opposed to 2022’s 38,000 and 145, attended Du¨sseldorf Germany’s international wines and spirits fair.

With 8 million bottles of her Italian and French rose´s already sold in 31 countries, Australian pop star Kylie Minogue’s March 20 appearance supporting the launch of her alcohol-free sparkling assured ProWein of international media attention beyond that of the typical trade exhibition. Crowd-catching added attractions included over 300 low- and no-alcohol wines from 12 countries at the Meininger Publications stand with 20 suppliers dedicated to this burgeoning category scattered throughout ProWein, sell-out masterclasses at the heavily trafficked VDP section of Hall 1 leading off with a focus on its new Sekt categories, and at the fair’s opposite end Hungary’s about Tokaj featuring Masters of Wine Elizabeth Gabay and Caroline Gilby.

Monika Kissing, Sr. Mgr. of Prowein’s Press & PR, shared that a key component to ProWein’s accessibility has been the opening in 2022 of a southern entrance, conveniently positioned next to its headquarters and the all-important Hall 1 housed exclusively by German suppliers. “With this and other points of consolidation we’ve tried to make it easier for buyers to find their suppliers. With 90% of its exhibitors coming from outside Germany, Prowein remains the world’s most international trade fair. Wine Paris and VinItaly are successful trade fairs, but both are overwhelmingly focused upon their host countries’ wines.” Kissing pointed out that, despite long being in contact with the regional hotel association about mitigating its members charges during ProWein, accommodation costs remain problematic for any of its visitors. “But we are well known for our organizational and support services offered to businesses.”

More than 200 Californians, many within with the “Explore Sustainable California” stand, exhibited on 700 sq. meters. Mary Ann Pisani of MHW Ltd. regularly attends to meet new and established clients to help in its international research and execution by “taking the temperature to learn what they’re doing and may need from us in the future.” She thought last year’s decision to have ProWein in May threw everything off and “the vibe wasn’t there. But we’re back now to the 2019 feeling!”

Nearby L’Ecole No. 41’s Marty Clubb was pouring to Greece’s Vassiliki Gerovassiliou while giving her and her sommelier colleague a Walla Walla terroir tour. But with his 50,000 cases regularly sold out, why was he here? “We’ve always wanted out brand to be internationally respected and coming here and to London has drawn many key media and buyers to appreciate what Washington vintners do. And I’ve just gotten interest from buyers in Norway and Finland, a first for me.”

“ProWein is the indispensable wine show I attend each year. The B2B focus and sheer breadth global exhibitors makes it a necessity for our industry, and every supplier I work with is here,” Chicago-based importer Jesse Becker said.

The pandemic kept Schatzi Wines’ Kevin Pike from visiting his European suppliers presenting at ProWein since 2019 but he lamented that “for different reasons about half of my producers aren’t here this year; my Ahr producer has nothing to show due to last year’s flooding.” German vintners have also been plagued by 2022’s otherwise relative dryness, the greatest experienced for many with short harvests the consequence. “Three of the last five years were the driest we’ve experienced,” said Martin Tesch of the Nahe, imported by New York’s Tri-Vin. “The goal for my father was maximum ripeness whereas for me it’s keeping my vines shaded and cool.” Pike also speculated that his suppliers also aren’t exhibiting because of ProWein’s rising costs, and that due to the pandemic many have pivoted to direct sales to private customers, “so the need for small wineries to grow exports has lessened.”

José Vouillamoz buys 300,000 bottles of wines for Divo, Switzerland’s oldest and largest wine club serving 20,000 members, with an eye to smaller producers growing mostly organically. “I’d like to spend the whole year visiting all my suppliers, but ProWein allows me to sensibly visit those already in our portfolio–except for the Italians who I’ll see next month at VinItaly.” Like many others in attendance, he last crossed the border to attend in 2019, in great part to maintain relationships founded on trust garnered from direct contact, but “the producers I’ve spoken with are upset with the rising costs and are threatening to not return.” Over lunch on its opening day, we concurred that attendance was less than on Sundays in earlier years.

Echoing Vouillamoz’s concerns about costs and first day attendees was Burgenland vintner Gerhard Kracher, whose booth was located in Hall 5 with most of Austria’s 300 or so producers, a noticeable decline from pre-pandemic editions. When queried about this, Prowein’s Monika Kissing admitted to a need of its reaching out to stem this trend. As opposed to earlier times when it occupied an entire, smaller hall the Austrians shared space with consolidated groups of organic and natural winegrowers from throughout Europe, South America, Africa, and Oceania. In 2022 France’s Ethic Drinks staged with its fellow organic producers alongside the Austrians, “but the drinker of Austrian wines isn’t the same as for France, so we joined Taste France in France’s hall,” said Mickael Alborgehetti who was happy with the widely international turnout of buyers. Possibly impacting ProWein’s attraction to French suppliers is the rising success and lesser cost of February’s Wine Paris, said to have been very busy according to Moulin Touchais’s Frederik Willbrenninck. “With Burgundy and Bordeaux becoming very expensive, the Loire has the wind at its back, especially with the cost-conscious northern European buyer.” With Wine Paris being over 90% French as compared to ProWein’s far more international profile, Willbrenninck commented that ProWein also has a seen a noticeable increase in Asian buyers, a point shared by its organizers.

Slovenia’s Bostjan Protner, imported by Vinum USA, noted that ProWein’s choice to hold 2022’s edition in May rather than its typical March period along with the rising costs have added to the overall concerns. Wine GB’s director Simon Thorpe MW pointed out that last year’s travel restrictions quashed any turnout from New Zealand while minimizing that from Australia.

But the betterment for all involved by taking part in large, collective gatherings were espoused by exhibitors such as Dagmar Fialova of Czechia’s National Wine Center, pleased to return after a five-year absence and with the traffic she received. “Helping us to put 16 wineries from a relatively unknown wine country on the map is being surrounded by cool vintners from Germany and Switzerland.”

ProWein 2024, celebrating its 30th edition, will occur March 10 – 12.